Dune Shacks Trail, Cape Cod

Dune Shacks Trail

Shoes left behind

The Dune Shacks trailhead is located at the intersection of Provincetown's Snail Road and Highway 6. After a short walk through forest, you will arrive at the point where a sand dune trail leads out of the forest up to a dune ridge. This is where people often leave their shoes behind. Even if you expect your hike to be easier without shoes, think twice on a sunny summer day, when the sand gets quite hot—and the water you are carrying along should be available for drinking, not for cooling your feet.

 

Dune trail with the Atlancic Ocean at the horizon

Follow the sand trail to the second ridge and you will reach a great vista point with views of the Dune Shacks area surrounded by Outer Cape Cod and the Atlantic Ocean at the horizon.

Trail winding through open pine forest: a dune shack can be seen in the far back

Continuing on the trail—up and down dunes—and then through a belt of low-growing pine trees, you are getting close to the ocean-front dunes with shacks on top and amazing views of the stunning sand beaches of Outer Cape Cod. 

Labyrinth of lower pine trees

An informative panel at the trailhead with the title “A grand place to be alone and undisturbed” summarizes the history of this interesting, inspiring dunescape:

This unmarked path leads through the unique landscape of the Dune Shacks of Peaked Hill Bars Historic District and on to the Atlantic Ocean. The dune shacks are part of Provincetown and Truro's rich history. The earliest shacks were built as temporary dwellings for the families of surfmen who were stationed at the Peaked Hill Bars Life-Saving Station. Some were built by the fishing community to provide shelter and stow gear. Noted American playwright Eugene O'Neill spent time in a shack in 1919. He later took up residence in the life-saving station after it was decommissioned by the U.S. Coast Guard. Over the decades, artists, writers, and those wishing to experience remote and rustic dune life have been inspired by this landscape and its solitude. The tradition continues. Today the shacks are still occupied by private citizens, and some are used by local non-profit organizations. You are invited to explore and develop your own personal connection to this special place.

Atlantic Ocean and beach view near the end of Dune Shacks Trail

On a nice day, you most likely will not find yourself alone while tracking the sand trail (which you are expected to do, to leave the ambient habitat undisturbed). Once at the beach, however, you may find solitude by strolling northwest or southest along the  “never-ending” shoreline. If you came from Provincetown via the Old Colony Nature Pathway you have—instead of returning the same way—the option to hike northwest to Race Point Beach and then find your way back using a section of the Province Lands Bicycle Trail Loop.

End of Dune Shacks Trail at Outer Cape Cod shoreline

From Provincetown to Race Point Light

Race Point Lighthouse

The Race Point Light Station on Outer Cape Cod is located on a sand dune peninsula between Hatches Harbor and the Atlantic seaside where Massachusetts Bay continues southward as Cape Cod Bay. The site includes the preserved Race Point Lighthouse, the Keeper's house and a Whistle house. 

Lighthouse and Keeper's house

You may access the site via sand-dune tour with a four-wheel drive vehicle on permit basis. Alternatively, if you prefer an un-motorized bicycling or hiking day trip, you can make one happen by heading out of Provincetown on Conwell Street to get to the Province Lands Bicycle Trail loop as described in my recent Herring Cove/Hatches Harbor post. Then, at the Beech Forest parking area, turn right on to the bicycle loop and follow the paved two-lane trail to the Province Lands Visitor Center and beyond to Race Point Beach, from where you want to walk westward along the sandy beach. 

Race Point Beach

The two miles between the Old Harbor Life-Saving Station Museum at Race Point Beach and Race Point Light offer the most spectacular scenery as you follow the shoreline bending from Cape Cod's northern tip to the most western point with views across Cape Cod Bay.

Seabirds at the Race Point shoreline

Intertidal and subtidal sand bars attract seabirds and seals. Stellwagen Bank to the north creates a hospitable environment for a diverse marine wildlife.

Seals hanging out in shallow water

The submarine topography of banks and basins provide for productive fishing grounds. But, the shifting underwater landscape in combination with severe weather events resulted in many maritime disasters. A panel at the Province Lands Visitor Center points out occurrences of fatal voyages underlined by nearby shipwrecks:

Along Cape Cod and through Stellwagen Bank National Marine Sanctuary, an ocean highway guides ships transporting people and goods to and from Boston and the Massachusetts ports. Unfortanately, over the past 400 years, numerous vessels have been lost to storms, collisions, and shifting shoals. Today, these shipwrecks serve as a window to the past.

Lighthouses played and still play an important role in guiding ships and saving lives. The Race Point Light Historic Site is an excellent location to reflect about coastal dynamics, hazards and safety. 

Water and seaweed flowing in with rising tide along a shoreline trough

From Provincetown to Herring Cove and Hatches Harbor

Kayakers taking advantage of the tidal inflow to explore Hatches Harbor salt marsh areas

Herring Cove Beach and Hatches Harbor of Cape Cod's Cape Tip area can be accessed from downtown Provincetown by choosing between different routes. My favorite one includes the bicycle trails through a mixed forest and over sand dunes. The total one-way-distance is a little over five miles. It includes about one mile from downtown to the Beech Forest trailhead next to Race Point Road. Then, 2.1 miles on the forest-pond-dune section of the Province Lands Bicycle Trail loop, another one mile on a paved trail traversing the coastal sand dune landscape and finally a beach walk north to Hatches Harbor with the Race Point lighthouse in view.

A view across Hatches Harbor to the Race Point Light Historic Site

Start this hike or bicycle trip by leaving Provincetown northbound on Conwell Street. Pass Highway 6 at the street light. For a short distance, continue north on Race Point Road until you see the trail sign and the beginning of a two-lane bicycle path on the left. Follow this path to the Province Lands Bicycle Loop in the Beech Forest area. Turn left and continue westward on the 2.1 mile-long loop section. For almost two mies you will travel through dense forests passing various fresh-water ponds. Leaving the forested area, you

will “climb” a hill—a sand dune with views of Cape Cod Bay and the Race Point lighthouse. From the trail junction near Province Land Road it is another mile on a pave two-lane path to Herring Cove Beach.

 

Bicyclist on Herring Cove Trail

 

Herring Cove sand dunes

Once you arrive at the beach, you want to leave your bike behind (if you came with one) and stroll north along the shoreline. 

Herring Cove Beach

The area you are entering now is changing its appearance within minutes due to the tidal flow of water. The most exciting place to watch the impressive ups-and-downs of salt water is the Hatches Harbor Habitat. This salt marsh estuary has an interesting recent history [1]:

The Hatches Harbor salt marsh is a remnant of a larger salt marsh complex that existed at the time of the first European settlement. This salt marsh was primarily a Spartina patens (salt hay grass) and S. alternifolia (smooth cord grass) community. In 1930, the upper 200 acres were enclosed behind a dike in an effort to contril salt water mosquitoes. The elimination of tidal flow dewatered part of the upper marsh, changing the mosaic of salt marsh and wetland communities. Subsequently, a small airport was constructed on the landward end of the marsh, an airport which today is a vital part of Provincetown's economy.

The airport can clearly be identified in the Hatches Harbor map [2]. The map also shows different zones with their predominant plant species.Thanks to tidal restoration efforts shellfish have re-colonized disturbed salt march zones, estuarine fish are again foraging in tidal creeks and important predators to mosquito larvae have returned [3].

Herring Cove Beach merging with Hatches Harbor salt marsh

References and more to explore

[] Norm Farris: Hatches Harbor Habitat. Link: https://www.nps.gov/gis/gisday/gallery/caco/hatches.html.

[2] Hatches Harbor Habitat, March 1998. Link: https://www.nps.gov/gis/gisday/gallery/caco/hatches.gif. 

[3] National Park Service, Cape Cod: Hatches Harbor Tidal Restoration Project. Link: https://www.nps.gov/caco/learn/nature/hatches-harbor-tidal-restoration-project.htm.

Cape Tip: Province Lands Bicycle Trail Loop

Sand dune landscape of Province Lands with green islands of shrubs or trees

The northern-end tip of Cape Cod was mostly covered by a mixed forest of beech, maple and oak trees before the first European colonists started clearing parts of it for planting and grazing. Today's bicycle trails north of Provincetown provide easy access for bicyclists and day-hikers to explore the remaining forest, access fresh-water ponds and enjoy the magnificient sand-dune landscape with cross-dune views of the Atlantic Ocean.  

Province Lands loop trail map

According to an informational board at the Province Lands Visitor Center, the tip of Cape Cod formed about 4000 years ago. The rest of the cape had already been shaped by glaciers. With global temperature increase, the sea level was rising. Currents carried sand from other sites, deposited it northwest of the precursor tip and formed the sandy Province Lands, which became stabilized and were kept in place by soil formation and pioneer vegetation growing into mature forests. The “Islands in the Sand” quote further below describes this process in more detail.

In this post, I am following the paved loop counter-clockwise, starting at the beech forest parking area on the left side of Race Point Road north of Highway 6 to Herring Cove Beach. Alongside the trail, you will find various interpretive panels featuring interesting subjects of local interest and beyond.

The first 1.8 miles next to Race Point Road wind through mostly open pine forest and over sandy hill sides toward the Province Lands Visitor Center. On a hill top with amazing views, a panel explains, how this land—used over thousands of years by the Pamet branch of the Wampanoag people for hunting, fishing and harvesting wild fruit—became Province Lands:

Just 20 years after the creation of the Boston Common, Plymouth Colony set aside the tip of Cape Cod in 1654 as our nation's second-oldest common land. Eventually called the Province Lands, the area provided resources, like timber and fish, critical to the colony's survival. 

 

Continuing downhill, you will soon arrive at the amphit theater and visitor center within the sand-dune landscape. The sand surface pattern of higher and lower elevations continues beyond the shoreline, where sandbars are a common features. A Cape Cod National Seashore panel at the visitor center points out:

When a ship got too close to land and struck a sandbar, there was no escaping the elements. Fierce winds and powerful waves could break up a wooden ship in minutes.

View from the visitor center deck

Westward from the visitor center, the trail soon crosses Race Point Road, where you will find yourself at be a trail junction. Unless your plan is to side-travel to Race Point Beach or to the Race Point Light Historical Site, turn left. It takes about half a mile to get to the underpass leading south of Province Lands Road. Then the trail roughly parallels this road in south-southwest direction to another junction, from where the right-turn trail takes you to Herring Cove Beach. The loop trail continues on the left in eastward direction.

“Islands in the Sand”

In my opinion, this is the highlight section of the loop. The trail leads to the top of a sand hill, where a panel introduces “Life in the Dunes” and “Islands in the Sand”:

As you look around the dunes you will see “islands” of vegetation. These plants are the result of a long process of soil-building, which starts when a combination of minerals, green algae, bacteria, and fungi form form a crust on the sand, drawing nutrients from the air and water. Lichens, which consist of algae and fungi, also coat the dunes. When these organisms die and decay, they contribute organic matter to the sand beneath them, and prevent the evaporation of water, thus forming soil. As soil builds up, grasses, shrubs, and even small trees, such as bear oak and black cherry can take root. As this process of succession—the change in vegetation species structure—continues, more areas of the dunes become forested.

Trail entering dense forest

The loop trail continues downhill and soon enters the forested lands. This beautiful, shady section of the loop trail leads back to our starting point through dense forest. Sand dune views are gone. Occasionally, you will find a narrow spot from where a fresh-water pond can be approached to scan water lily bloom or search for rare golden club plants.

Fresh-water pond seen through opening forest greens

Merrimack River Walk to Cashman Park and tidal river/salt marsh outlook

Merrimack River boardwalk near the Clipper City Rail Trail

Arriving at the the Merrimack River (also written Merrimac River) by traveling the 1.1-mile-long Clipper City Rail Trail (CCRT) from Newburyport's MBTA station to the “G-Swirl overlook,” you may want to continue trailing around by either turning right to the Waterfront Promenade and Harbor Walk trail leading to the CCRT's other half by turning left toward Cashman Park.

Cashman Park with Merrimack River

The short waterfront trail to Cashman Park passes a Sportfishing Pier and various boat ramps. The trail continues to a round platform offering an overlook of parts of the tidal Merrimack River and salt marshes.

An informational panel on the platform lists the Bald Eagle, the Salt Marsh Sparrow, the Atlantic Sturgeon, the Shortnose Sturgeon and the Atlantic Bass as species that come here as visitors or for breeding. The tidal river section contains vital salt marsh ecosystems. The panel has the following details:

The Merrimack River also contains other dynamic natural habitats such as Black Oak and Scarlet Oak Woodlands, Brackish Tidal Marshes, Salt Marshes, and Seagrass communities. These tidal creeks, estuaries and salt marshes are highly productive natural resources that provide crititical habitat for many species of birds, fish, reptiles and mammals.

Merrickmack River and inner harbor overlook

 

Clipper City Rail Trail—the other half

Railroad remnant on Clipper City Rail Trail

The Clipper City Rail Trail (CCRT) connects the Newburyport MBTA station with the historic downtown of Newburyport and the harbor area. There is another CCRT half: its trailhead is located about 2000 ft east of the train station on Parker Street. From the CCRT trailhead arch at the MBTA station go east on Parker Street. After managing the Highway 1 traffic circle, continue east on Parker Street and find the CCRT trailhead on the left—just past the cemetery.

Railroad blocks next to Clipper City Rail Trail

Like the already highlighted first half, this CCRT section features nature, art and history alongside the paved trail. About one third of it is a greenbelt trail, the following third leads through neighborhoods and the final third is an open-air art gallery with paintings of local sceneries.

The following pictures showcase sites and art between you can find between Parker Street and Water Street, where the CCRT turns into the Newburyport Harborwalk trail.

Crab sculpture at High Street underpass

“Dog on bicycle” riding in a CCRT neighborhood garden

“Cat on bicycle” riding in a CCRT neighborhood garden

The art walk passage

“Swallows Over Plum Island” by Leah Grimaldi

“Men Clamming, Plum Island Basin” by Christine Bobek

“Yellow House, Water Street” by Cynthia Kowal

“Green Dory” by Marjet Lesk

“Bartlett Mall: A Hide and Seek Adventure” by Jason Harris

“Old South Church” by Susan Orfant

“Foggy Evening on the River” by Wenda Chelter

“Sunset at Joppa Flats” by Stephanie Noah

“Cross Farm Hill, Plum Island” by Skip Motes

“Boston & Maineat Water Street Crossing” by Alan Bull

“Dream” sculpture near CRRT/Water Street junction

Joggers on CCRT approaching Harborwalk trail

Note: All pictures were taken in mid-July, 2020.

Clipper City Rail Trail

“Wishbone” sculpture by Vermont artist James Irving (2010)

The paved, 1.1-mile-long, multi-use Clipper City Rail Trail (CCRT) connects the MBTA Train Station in Newburyport, Essex County, Massachusetts, with the Merrimac River estuary and seaport area. Various schooners such as the original Clipper City built in Manitowoc, Wisconsin, frequented the harbor of Newburyport in the 19th century. The rail-trail name commemorates these multi-masted sailing vessels.

When you arrive in Newburyport by train, exit the train and continue on the railway platform in northeast direction toward the Mark Richey Woodworking Arch—the CCRT starting point. The CCRT is a recreation trail that follows what once was the track of the Boston and Maine Railroad.

Mark Richey Woodworking Arch north of Newburyport's MBTA station

Today, this greenway trail links Newburyport neighborhoods with each other: inviting foot travelers, dog walkers, joggers, skateboarders and bicyclists to make their way alongside sculptures and other points of relaxation, education and inspiration. 

In the following, I am tracing the CCRT from the woodwork arch to the riverside by highlighting selected trailside objects including historical and educational placards. The theme of the art work alongside the trail may be summarized as “animals, nature and dynamic forms.” The first sculpture, “Sparrows” by Dale Rodgers (2011), shows two birds gliding side by side in vertically tilted posture.

“Sparrows” by Dale Rodgers (2011)

                                                  

Next, you will arrive at the self-explanatory sign for Haley's Ice Cream. Continuing on the CCRT, you will pass the Alchemical Garden and a Little Free Library. You can't miss Clyde already waiting for you. “Clyde” is a horse sculpture by James Burnes (2009) made of corten weathering steel and black locust wood.

“Clyde” by James Burnes (2009)

The following two sculptures capture (un)balance and movement: “Eclipse” by Rob Lorenson (2010) shows a delicately positioned, leaning circle composition and “Torrential Flight” by Brian F. Russell (2009) gives the impression of two red gummy birds riding a whirlwind.

“Eclipse” by Rob Lorenson (2010)

“Torrential Flight” by Brian F. Russell (2009)

When reaching the limestone installation “Will He” by Simon LaRochelle (2008) you will be at the  CCRT midpoint. When I walked by in June 2020, the bicycle parts shown on earlier pictures of this sculpture were missing.

Soon I came to a historical placard presenting information on  the Newburyport Roundhouse:

The Roundhouse was used for servicing or storing steam engines. Steam locomotives often could not operate well in reverse, and the defining feature of the Roundhouse was the giant turntable that could spin an engine around and put it back on the track. Built in the late 19th century and situated where a private maintenance yard exists today, the Newburyport Roundhouse was closed on September 28, 1947.

Turntable for steam locomotive

Nearby, bridge-embankment blocks have been placed in a pentagram arrangement. A placard on one of the granite blocks describes their history: 

These 19th century granite blocks once supported the old railroad bridge embankment at the Merrimack River. The blocks were relocated here in 2009 during construction of the Clipper City Rail Trail.

Granite blocks once supporting railroad bridge embankment

Next to the granite blocks the steel “Steam Loco” play sculpture waits for children and their parents to explore the interactive train structure.  Also interactive: the sculpture “Wishbone” by Vermont artist James Irving (2010)—see top picture of this post—invites you to take the seat at the fusion of two red clavicles holding an orange ball or globe.

Ryan Kelley sculpture given by the Friends of Newburyport Trees

After underpassing High Street wall-based sculptures are coming up. On the left side is a Ryan Kelley sculpture given by the Friends of Newburyport Trees. The wall across this tree sculpture features estuarian life: the “Great Blue Heron” by Bob Kimball (2010) and pl

xx  “Great Blue Heron” by Bob Kimball (2010) and “Native Fish” by Bob Kimball (2010).

“Great Blue Heron” by Bob Kimball (2010)

Details on the “Great Blue Heron” at given on the sculpture placard:

This sculpture was commissioned in memory of John P. Soward by his friends and family. John, a talented artist, lived for many years in the house on the other side of this wall. This sculpture is based on his painting of the great blue heron.

“Native Fish” by Bob Kimball (2010)

Time to dive into local history again, The board with the title “The 1873 Train Wreck at Merrimac Street, Newburyport” describes a  “lucky accident” without fatalities:

A misplaced switch forced a freight train onto a dead-en side track on May 23, 1873, and the 34-ton steam locomotive smashed through barriers and fell down the embankment to Merrimac Street below. The engineer and fireman jumped clear before the impact. Fortunately, no one was hurt in the dramatic accident, and the engine was back on the track two days later.

The 1873 Train Wreck at Merrimac Street, Newburyport

Still on the track, one soon reaches the CCRT vista point with views of the Merrimac River.

The viewing platform has benches and is distinctively marked by the sculpure “G-Swirl” by Dale Rogers (2010).

“G-Swirl” by Dale Rogers (2010)

Old railroad bridge over Merrimac River

Note

Most of the descriptions and data in this post are based on the state at which objects and placards were found alongside the CCRT in June 2020. Additional information can be found on selected websites given below. 

References, further reading & more to explore

Mark Favermann: From Train Tracks to A Public Art Walk. Berkshire Fine Arts, Dec. 17, 2011. Link: https://www.berkshirefinearts.com/index.php/12-17-2011_from-train-tracks-to-public-art.htm.

Clipper City Rail Trail, Newburyport. Link: https://coastaltrails.org/the-trail-network/clipper-city-rail-trail-newburyport/.

Trail overview. City of Newburyport. Link: https://www.cityofnewburyport.com/sites/newburyportma/files/file/file/trail_overview.pdf.

Clipper City Rail Trail (Newburyport, MA). New England Nomad. June 23, 2016. Link: https://newenglandnomad2015.com/2016/06/23/clipper-city-rail-trail-newburyport-ma/,

Essex Nation Heritage Area. Link: https://essexheritage.org/attractions-all-towns?field_location_locality=Newburyport&page=1.

From trains to trails. The Daily News, May 20, 2010. Link: https://www.newburyportnews.com/news/local_news/from-trains-to-trails/article_28e92d37-bb56-5c9d-99cd-7aa8d050e8dd.html.