Clipper City Rail Trail

“Wishbone” sculpture by Vermont artist James Irving (2010)

The paved, 1.1-mile-long, multi-use Clipper City Rail Trail (CCRT) connects the MBTA Train Station in Newburyport, Essex County, Massachusetts, with the Merrimac River estuary and seaport area. Various schooners such as the original Clipper City built in Manitowoc, Wisconsin, frequented the harbor of Newburyport in the 19th century. The rail-trail name commemorates these multi-masted sailing vessels.

When you arrive in Newburyport by train, exit the train and continue on the railway platform in northeast direction toward the Mark Richey Woodworking Arch—the CCRT starting point. The CCRT is a recreation trail that follows what once was the track of the Boston and Maine Railroad.

Mark Richey Woodworking Arch north of Newburyport's MBTA station

Today, this greenway trail links Newburyport neighborhoods with each other: inviting foot travelers, dog walkers, joggers, skateboarders and bicyclists to make their way alongside sculptures and other points of relaxation, education and inspiration. 

In the following, I am tracing the CCRT from the woodwork arch to the riverside by highlighting selected trailside objects including historical and educational placards. The theme of the art work alongside the trail may be summarized as “animals, nature and dynamic forms.” The first sculpture, “Sparrows” by Dale Rodgers (2011), shows two birds gliding side by side in vertically tilted posture.

“Sparrows” by Dale Rodgers (2011)

                                                  

Next, you will arrive at the self-explanatory sign for Haley's Ice Cream. Continuing on the CCRT, you will pass the Alchemical Garden and a Little Free Library. You can't miss Clyde already waiting for you. “Clyde” is a horse sculpture by James Burnes (2009) made of corten weathering steel and black locust wood.

“Clyde” by James Burnes (2009)

The following two sculptures capture (un)balance and movement: “Eclipse” by Rob Lorenson (2010) shows a delicately positioned, leaning circle composition and “Torrential Flight” by Brian F. Russell (2009) gives the impression of two red gummy birds riding a whirlwind.

“Eclipse” by Rob Lorenson (2010)

“Torrential Flight” by Brian F. Russell (2009)

When reaching the limestone installation “Will He” by Simon LaRochelle (2008) you will be at the  CCRT midpoint. When I walked by in June 2020, the bicycle parts shown on earlier pictures of this sculpture were missing.

Soon I came to a historical placard presenting information on  the Newburyport Roundhouse:

The Roundhouse was used for servicing or storing steam engines. Steam locomotives often could not operate well in reverse, and the defining feature of the Roundhouse was the giant turntable that could spin an engine around and put it back on the track. Built in the late 19th century and situated where a private maintenance yard exists today, the Newburyport Roundhouse was closed on September 28, 1947.

Turntable for steam locomotive

Nearby, bridge-embankment blocks have been placed in a pentagram arrangement. A placard on one of the granite blocks describes their history: 

These 19th century granite blocks once supported the old railroad bridge embankment at the Merrimack River. The blocks were relocated here in 2009 during construction of the Clipper City Rail Trail.

Granite blocks once supporting railroad bridge embankment

Next to the granite blocks the steel “Steam Loco” play sculpture waits for children and their parents to explore the interactive train structure.  Also interactive: the sculpture “Wishbone” by Vermont artist James Irving (2010)—see top picture of this post—invites you to take the seat at the fusion of two red clavicles holding an orange ball or globe.

Ryan Kelley sculpture given by the Friends of Newburyport Trees

After underpassing High Street wall-based sculptures are coming up. On the left side is a Ryan Kelley sculpture given by the Friends of Newburyport Trees. The wall across this tree sculpture features estuarian life: the “Great Blue Heron” by Bob Kimball (2010) and pl

xx  “Great Blue Heron” by Bob Kimball (2010) and “Native Fish” by Bob Kimball (2010).

“Great Blue Heron” by Bob Kimball (2010)

Details on the “Great Blue Heron” at given on the sculpture placard:

This sculpture was commissioned in memory of John P. Soward by his friends and family. John, a talented artist, lived for many years in the house on the other side of this wall. This sculpture is based on his painting of the great blue heron.

“Native Fish” by Bob Kimball (2010)

Time to dive into local history again, The board with the title “The 1873 Train Wreck at Merrimac Street, Newburyport” describes a  “lucky accident” without fatalities:

A misplaced switch forced a freight train onto a dead-en side track on May 23, 1873, and the 34-ton steam locomotive smashed through barriers and fell down the embankment to Merrimac Street below. The engineer and fireman jumped clear before the impact. Fortunately, no one was hurt in the dramatic accident, and the engine was back on the track two days later.

The 1873 Train Wreck at Merrimac Street, Newburyport

Still on the track, one soon reaches the CCRT vista point with views of the Merrimac River.

The viewing platform has benches and is distinctively marked by the sculpure “G-Swirl” by Dale Rogers (2010).

“G-Swirl” by Dale Rogers (2010)

Old railroad bridge over Merrimac River

Note

Most of the descriptions and data in this post are based on the state at which objects and placards were found alongside the CCRT in June 2020. Additional information can be found on selected websites given below. 

References, further reading & more to explore

Mark Favermann: From Train Tracks to A Public Art Walk. Berkshire Fine Arts, Dec. 17, 2011. Link: https://www.berkshirefinearts.com/index.php/12-17-2011_from-train-tracks-to-public-art.htm.

Clipper City Rail Trail, Newburyport. Link: https://coastaltrails.org/the-trail-network/clipper-city-rail-trail-newburyport/.

Trail overview. City of Newburyport. Link: https://www.cityofnewburyport.com/sites/newburyportma/files/file/file/trail_overview.pdf.

Clipper City Rail Trail (Newburyport, MA). New England Nomad. June 23, 2016. Link: https://newenglandnomad2015.com/2016/06/23/clipper-city-rail-trail-newburyport-ma/,

Essex Nation Heritage Area. Link: https://essexheritage.org/attractions-all-towns?field_location_locality=Newburyport&page=1.

From trains to trails. The Daily News, May 20, 2010. Link: https://www.newburyportnews.com/news/local_news/from-trains-to-trails/article_28e92d37-bb56-5c9d-99cd-7aa8d050e8dd.html.